80C + on newer games at 50% fan speed. If you have a good 7900 series cooler, it's tranferable to the 88GT. Zalman makes some wicked fans.
Like my old 7900GS, LFS in considerably lower. Could be due to my fps cap and/or LFSs light graphics.
You mean thier retailers? They (EVGA, XFX, PNY, ect.) are the ones who are first to price gouge with supply and demand. The 88GT rocks for the price/performance. If you bought the 8800GTX or 2900XT, the manufacturer did then indeed rape you. The retailers raped you this time, not nvidia.
It's true about the ruged construction, fuses and lastability.
The lastability is probably because of the large fuses and low wattage, ofcourse things are changing and stock namebrand pc PSUs are becoming crap like the rest of the system. Yet, yes ... Dell still supplies half-decent PSUs. I'll try to find the forum and site that compared this.
^ Dajmin said it.
512 would be sufficient for LFS even though the game doesn't use all of it, Windows will in the background. 128 will spazzasticly unplayable hate to say.
As for PCI, if you haven't got AGP, a 6200LE or x1300 are your only retreats - and will still walk over on-board video.
I'd grab a processer if you can find it for bread and watter; otherwise scrap that idea and focus on the ram.
I'd recommend going for nVidia. Thier GPUs use overall less wattage and amperage. If you have 19-21 amps on the +12volt rail(s) a 7600GT is your best bet and a 79GS may work. And if you have multiple +12 volt rails, check the "combined amps rating" on your PSU.
Many many people run 7600GTs on 300w PSUs, it's just a factor of having the amperage.
As long as your above the 350w mark and have decent +12v rail amperage (around 26v or more), your fine with a 8600GT - as long as your not running a coffee pot off the psu also or have a glorified heat bucket running every slot with a component. Combined (or single) +12 volt rail(s) "combined rating" (labeled in PSU charts on PSU) factors equal - if not above peak wattage. Insufficient voltage means lock-ups, where-as insufficient wattage (with sufficient votage) most likely degrades performance whilst operating.
As an example, my XPS's PSU peak wattage is rated at 375w - yet it has 2 +12v rails rated at 29a combined (around 19a each rail). nVidia calls for 450w(?) for the 88GTX/GT yet 26 amps through the +12v - so here I am running a 88GT that "should" have a 450w+ PSU - the fact is, the 88GT uses 140w peak. nVidia and ATI are giving these credentials for a "worst-case-scenerio" PC (3 hard drives, 2 cd burners, LED lights, 4 fans, ect.).
Contrare to popular belief, stock acer/dell/compaq/ect. PSUs are built tougher with bigger fuses than the after-market and often carry high voltage through thier rails and lower peak wattage which could contribute to thier long-lasting ability. Just thought I'd throw that in. You've really got to make sure to find the combined +12v rating when buying a PSU. There is a lot of show and throw products out there today.
Sorry about the lecture. PSU marketing gets people caught up in peak watts.
Logy Momo Racing is cheapening now, you can remove sequential shifter on the right side if you prefer paddle or button shifting - and turn FF off if you like. Revision B is a must for pedals w/o spiking problems. Very grippy with rubber covering the wheel. Pleased with mine after 1 month. Yet, if you have the money, go for the DFP.
And they're crazy for sitting behind a mind-mushing propaganda-pushing television for hours - works both ways. I'd bet sim racing does more for your brain.
242 Degrees,
0.30 compesation
5% FF
I also set the wheel lock on my setups one quarter lower than stock for GT and open wheel cars and quarter lower (30* to 22*) for the tin-tops. This is just enough to be able to correct the car when it slides w/o overcorrecting too easily. The wheel (steering) lock is another way to slow the steering if you suffer over-sensitivity - or you could just drink some vodka and become vulgar (ha-ha).
Haven't messed with stock profiler settings either since most games allow you to set the sensitivity through them.
Mine and many other ISP's renew IP's every so often (heard this is to discourage P2P). A 15 or 20 second keep alive would work well. Very frustrating running up front and being kicked, rejoining and starting the next race at the back of the pack.
Video cards aren't as reliant on the overall wattage as the PSU marketing tries to convince - as nV or ATi also will suggest the worst case nerd-o PC that runs everything off the PSU but a toaster oven. Most 7600GT's need around 16-18 amps on the +12 volt rail. Worst case 18A x 12V = 216w - 10% inefficiency = 194w. Check your PSU's +12V rail and 7600GT amperage requirement to be sure.
As long as you don't have 2 hard-drives, all drive bays filled, and gaggles of power consuming components in your PC (you get my drift), you should be fine.
Good idea.
Customizing the clicks to throttle percentage - 1 click to 50% / 2 for 100% would be ideal. You'd want to be able to keep your finger on the roller the whole time for the fastest response. Say you had it configured for 5 clicks to 100% - you'd have to lift your finger, bring it back and keep rolling. It doesn't seem that influential, but when races depend on milliseconds, it may throw your whole game off.
Obviously a knock off of the flat tight cornered Martinsville 1/2 mile in Virginia, USA. Hopefully you all like to bend fenders
Enjoy!
(Revised 26.4 meters longer and 0.41 miles around *Tightened turns *Straights lined with white lines *Takes about 1 - 2 seconds longer to finish a lap)
Last edited by Fuel Filter, .
Reason : to make straights longer and tighter